Central Library Bahawalpur

On the third day of our visit, we went to the central library of Bahawalpur to do some research on our project. When we reached there, we were sooo impressed by its mesmerizing and magnanimous architecture and the over all grooming of the place.

We were not disappointed by visiting from the inside as well. It has the antique interior, with high roof ceiling, dropping down ceiling fans, perfectly old styled cupboards, furniture, and their arrangement. One feel like one has gone back to the Quaid’s era. It has its own felicity and solace, yet we didn’t expect it to be that antique in terms of books and data resources. That of course was disappointing. It felt like the library was abandoned. No people more come to read here, no more issue books. Multiple books existed only in the catalogues with no record of their issuance or their presence in the cupboards. This really broke our heart.

We then came out to explore what actually was fascinating, its architecture. What I admired the most in the building was the delicacy of the design together with the strength of the structure. It is indeed another marvel of designs of Nawabs.

The different terraces in its architecture with small domical structures appears as if they are lined with small oil lamps. Then the columns and the arches not only adds to the delicacy of design but also provide perfect strength to the architecture. I loved the concept of two adjacent columns supporting together making a small arch between each arch.

Another attraction at the library was the vintage car and the railway engine. One thing that is appreciative was the overall maintenance of the place. Not only just here, but everywhere in the city. It is clean with people strictly following traffic rules unlike most of the other cities. I must say it’s a sophisticated city where we can still feel the presence of nawabs. Bahawalpur appears as a country itself, with its own unique architecture and lifestyle.

Rating

Site: 9.5/10

Accessibility: 10/10

Services: 9/10

Staff: 8/10

Market: 9.5/10

Resourcefulness: 9.5/10

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The Grand Palaces of Nawabs

On our way back from the fort, we planned to visit the Sadiqgarh Mahal, one of the many palaces of Nawabs. It’s all white with typical architectural design of nawabs. This palace is not that well maintained comparatively. There was a time when Ghilaf-e-Ka’ba was prepared there, and the old ones were displayed in the mahal; and this was an official and important mahal of Nawabs. But now there ain’t no electricity and so many parts are somewhat worn out. No maintenance is done of the outside ground either. It now looks haunted at night despite all the grandeur that’s still intact.

Next evening, we visited the other palaces of nawabs. Most famous and overrated is Noor Mahal, where I believe others are more beautiful. Actually, all of these palaces are now under the custody of military, and only Noor Mahal is open for public.

Anyway, using our army resources we easily got access to the other palaces. First we visited Darbar Mahal. You might have seen it already in the film, Punjab Nahi Jaon Gi, that was shot in this palace. It has a very traditionally contemporary design. Elegantly simple yet intricate.

Other than the exterior and interior, what I loved the most were those small pelicans sculptured everywhere. Pelican was symbolic of nawabs for their self-sufficiency. It is said that they can die but can’t rely or depend on others.

Opposite to Darbar mahal is Nishat mahal. Not as grand but equally beautiful. It is like a big barahdari with wide baramdah and arches. Its rooms contain archives of nawabs and Pakistan military. There was a third palace in the area too, named Farrukh mahal but we didn’t visit that.

Overall, I love the lighting of the whole place; highlighting all the major architectural features of each mahal. These are now converted into offices and rest houses and otherwise a restricted area. If you can, I must suggest you all to visit them all.

Rating

Site: 9.5/10

Accessibility: 10/10

Services: 9/10

Staff: 7/10

Market: 8/10

Resourcefulness: 8/10

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Derawar Fort

From graveyards, we went straight to the Derawar fort, one of the archoelogical sites of the region. Despite its pathetic condition, Derawar is the only fort of all whose remnants are still intact to the place. Within and near fort are sites of a mosque, bazaar and the housing for imperial army; as well as Abbasi royal graveyard. The fort was originally called Dera Rawal because it was built as a tribute to Rawal Deoraj Bhatti, a Rajput autonomous king of the Jaisalmer and Bahawalpur areas who had his capital at Lodhrauva. Later Muslim Nawabs of Bahawalpur took over the fort in 18^th century. 

The fort has two distinguished peripheries, inner and outer. Within the outer periphery is guardroom, haramsara, and the (dried) lake. Inner periphery has a watch tower as entrance leading inside with brick walkways. There’s an underground tunnel system connecting the fort with the palaces. There there is a secretariat compound opposite to the observation post, having offices for government dignitaries. Then there is a masjid right next to it. The hang point (phansi ghaat) is still standing still at the place of its construction. At a height is baradari containing a room with exquisite fresco on walls and carved wooden doors and ceilings, with staircase leading to its roof. From the north-eastern bastion, the lake and the whole dessert can be viewed.

We had our own guide with us, besides we had already did some of our research before visiting the fort. Mostly you have to help yourself. Some parts of the fort are completely inaccessible either because they are demolished or are on their way of destruction. As fast as it is coming down, I believe it will all get razed to ground in just few years. Albeit people are trying to protect the structure but still it’s too humungous to conserve it all into its original form.

Rating

Site: 7/10

Accessibility: 6/10

Services: 5/10

Residents: 8/10

Market: 1/10

Resourcefulness: 4/10

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Graveyards of Nawabs

As grand as their lifestyle was, so are their last abodes of rest. Nawabs are a clear picture of honor and royalty. On our visit to the Cholistan dessert, we headed straight to the graves of Nawabs. Plus in our case was that our cousin is an army personnel that helped us getting the permission to enter inside the graveyard too. All these assets of Nawabs are now under the custody of army and local people are generally now allowed to visit these places anymore.

The architecture was mesmerizing enough from the outside that if somebody comes visit the exterior architecture only, that too would be enough for him to cherish the beauty of the place. But, if like us, somebody gets permission to see the graves too, that for sure would be a cherry on the top.

First talking about the exterior of the graves, the facades are a unique and beautiful blend of raw bricks with tile work in hues of blue. Some framing the pishtaq with Ayat-al-kursi and other Arabic inscriptions, and some adding details to the mashrabiyan on windows with naqashi patterns. What I personally loved the most are those small architectural instruments chatra and other small domical and minaret like structures. They were literally enhancing the beauty of the architecture.

Let’s get inside! So when the doors of the graveyard were opened for us, our jaws remained dropped for a few seconds in the beginning. For someone who really adore architecture marvels, it was no less than a treat and that too all at one place. The intricacy of the details was unbelievably real; covering the whole interior elevation. There were fresco paintings, tile work and as detailed wooden panels of the window. And the way how light was filtering from the windows felt like coming straight from the heavens. 

AND THE CEILING.. it is the crux of the beauty of the whole place. Floor was comparatively simple, yet it should be, to highlight the individual graves. It again, it was a perfectly designed interior of any place.

Most importantly, I loved the royalty blended with the mysticism in every single brick of the place. It is indeed a pure gem and a great asset of the nation.

Rating

Site: 9.5/10

Accessibility: 8/10

Services: 6/10

Residents: 8/10

Market: 6/10

Resourcefulness: 6/10

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A Trip to Cholistan Dessert

How can someone visit Bahawalpur and not visit the famous Derawar Fort during the stay? So we spared a whole day for exploring the Cholistan dessert especially the fort. We packed food, snacks, the very important “water” (each carrying his own waterbottle as well), umbrellas, pea caps etc. and we left by 10 in the morning. Day time is always hot there no matter what month it is. As we were heading towards the desert, it was getting hot and dry. We stopped by the village near the graveyard of Nawabs and there we interacted with locals as well.

People of Cholistan (Rohillas) are divided into three types of settlements; nomadic, semi-permanent and permanent. Nomadic settlements are temporary and their dependency is completely on tobas (water reservoirs), hence they don’t have any permanent residences. If the toba dries due to rain fail, they move and camp at another toba. Semi-permanent settlements stay in the area with relatively permanent residences.

 The population is however not entirely permanent as some of them move seasonally and sometimes joined by the nomadic people of the desert. People we met were rather permanent settlers who settles where agricultural yield is better due to canal system, as it improves their way of living and economy.

Rohillas doesn’t have any elaborate sources of livelihood. Their limited earning is primarily based on herding and grazing cattle, that they either sell milk or shorn for wool. Besides that, women of the family make handicrafts including rally and fulasi which sometimes is bought by the visitors.

Their most common mode of transportation is camel or on foot.

 Only travelers or the semi-permanent folks use bicycles or motorcycles occasionally. Four wheelers such as jeeps and cars are restricted to government officials only. Private vehicles are allowed only for 24 hours with the permit issued by the District Commissioner.

The architecture of rohi is categorized according to the three major settlements, beside the historic architectural assets. Nomadic people, do not make any permanent dwellings. Their temporary houses known as gopas (round low mud walls with domical roof), are generally made of the locally available mud and thatch. Houses of other settlements however are spatial and are made of cement and bricks generally.

So, this is how briefly I can introduce the Cholistan dessert. In fact, I have so much more details to share for every part of my visit that’s why I have written separate blogs for each.

Rating

Site: 8/10

Accessibility: 8/10

Services: 6/10

Residents: 8/10

Market: 6/10

Resourcefulness: 6/10

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Khanaspur Waterfalls

Just like the other concealed spots of Khanaspur, the three waterfalls are also not known to many. We too only knew about two waterfalls only, as was told to us by people, unless we tracked down the source of the second waterfall and found the third waterfall there. It is indeed a miraculous place with lot of hidden mysteries still needed to be discovered.

So we started our journey by first booking a local Suzuki pick up, although we can take our own cars, but it’s better to hire local; because first, to get to the right place without getting distracted and second, because sometimes routes are risky. We travelled down the hill on routes that kept switching from one side to the other of those big mountains. It offered us a variety of views to cherish. On our way, we saw the first waterfall that was so small that only one or two persons could stand under it.

We didn’t stop there because it was not a family spot neither did we find it that attractive, just being honest. We moved forward cherishing the beauty of the place and finally stopped on a bridge. Oh! So we had finally reached. The bridge was above the big water stream coming from the second waterfall. We went down the bridge to the water.

 It was a fresh warm water stream reflecting the lush green mountains around, with goats grazing on them and little girls from the village playing and jumping from the big rock into the water. There were small one step terraces with water flowing on them and those girls had smartly blocked the water with small stones to control the water flow; making them a small hose to jump in.

Then we moved on on foot to find the actual source of water. The way was rocky and not for everyone to step onto. It was quite with no human existence. Haunting for those who feel like and only worth visiting during the day time. There on the way, we found another and more beautiful waterfall. Although it was thin but what attractive was the small bowl of rock it was falling in. This makes you stop, take a deep breath and never go back to where you came from.

Rating

Site: 9/10

Accessibility: 8/10

Services: 6/10

Market: 5/10

Resourcefulness: 6/10

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Khanaspur

Khanaspur is one of the places of Galiyaat region, not known to many. It is hidden in the vicinity of Ayubia in a way that one cannot easily find the place. You need to discover that off route road leading to this gem of a place until you’ve already visited the place. The air is fresh, of course, and the place is not crowded like other Galiyaat regions. It is blessed with unmatchable natural beauty and hospitable people. Khanaspur is an underdeveloped village, not because of the houses or roads but because of the availability of resources.

Khanaspur is one of the small pieces of heaven on earth; with lush green mountains, tiny water springs at every other place, clear sky and fresh air. If one wants to have their own farm house away from the city hustle, one must find a place in Khanaspur for its execution. The serenity at the place is unmatchable.

We stayed in a small rented house there and explored the place on foot. There was a small water spring just a few steps down the hill, where we used to get the drinking water from. The place is more like a natural labyrinth with interlinked and connected paths. Most of the paths are needed to be discovered especially if you are new to the place, because locals know all the secret ways to the hidden sites. This place really is full of surprises.

 You never know which path will take you where or if the path will end at a certain destination. And the houses, both centuries old and the contemporary built, are so well maintained and are located at such beautiful sites that one dreams of. Their color, architecture and location all compliments together to make them look more appealing.

I can only write about it in general sense, because the specific beauty can only be cherished by visiting it. This place is needed to be discovered and explored oneself to celebrate its concealed beauty, specific to everyone.

Rating

Site: 8/10

Accessibility: 8/10

Services: 7/10

Staff: 8/10

Market: 8/10

Resourcefulness: 7/10

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