Graveyards of Nawabs

As grand as their lifestyle was, so are their last abodes of rest. Nawabs are a clear picture of honor and royalty. On our visit to the Cholistan dessert, we headed straight to the graves of Nawabs. Plus in our case was that our cousin is an army personnel that helped us getting the permission to enter inside the graveyard too. All these assets of Nawabs are now under the custody of army and local people are generally now allowed to visit these places anymore.

The architecture was mesmerizing enough from the outside that if somebody comes visit the exterior architecture only, that too would be enough for him to cherish the beauty of the place. But, if like us, somebody gets permission to see the graves too, that for sure would be a cherry on the top.

First talking about the exterior of the graves, the facades are a unique and beautiful blend of raw bricks with tile work in hues of blue. Some framing the pishtaq with Ayat-al-kursi and other Arabic inscriptions, and some adding details to the mashrabiyan on windows with naqashi patterns. What I personally loved the most are those small architectural instruments chatra and other small domical and minaret like structures. They were literally enhancing the beauty of the architecture.

Let’s get inside! So when the doors of the graveyard were opened for us, our jaws remained dropped for a few seconds in the beginning. For someone who really adore architecture marvels, it was no less than a treat and that too all at one place. The intricacy of the details was unbelievably real; covering the whole interior elevation. There were fresco paintings, tile work and as detailed wooden panels of the window. And the way how light was filtering from the windows felt like coming straight from the heavens. 

AND THE CEILING.. it is the crux of the beauty of the whole place. Floor was comparatively simple, yet it should be, to highlight the individual graves. It again, it was a perfectly designed interior of any place.

Most importantly, I loved the royalty blended with the mysticism in every single brick of the place. It is indeed a pure gem and a great asset of the nation.

Rating

Site: 9.5/10

Accessibility: 8/10

Services: 6/10

Residents: 8/10

Market: 6/10

Resourcefulness: 6/10

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A Trip to Cholistan Dessert

How can someone visit Bahawalpur and not visit the famous Derawar Fort during the stay? So we spared a whole day for exploring the Cholistan dessert especially the fort. We packed food, snacks, the very important “water” (each carrying his own waterbottle as well), umbrellas, pea caps etc. and we left by 10 in the morning. Day time is always hot there no matter what month it is. As we were heading towards the desert, it was getting hot and dry. We stopped by the village near the graveyard of Nawabs and there we interacted with locals as well.

People of Cholistan (Rohillas) are divided into three types of settlements; nomadic, semi-permanent and permanent. Nomadic settlements are temporary and their dependency is completely on tobas (water reservoirs), hence they don’t have any permanent residences. If the toba dries due to rain fail, they move and camp at another toba. Semi-permanent settlements stay in the area with relatively permanent residences.

 The population is however not entirely permanent as some of them move seasonally and sometimes joined by the nomadic people of the desert. People we met were rather permanent settlers who settles where agricultural yield is better due to canal system, as it improves their way of living and economy.

Rohillas doesn’t have any elaborate sources of livelihood. Their limited earning is primarily based on herding and grazing cattle, that they either sell milk or shorn for wool. Besides that, women of the family make handicrafts including rally and fulasi which sometimes is bought by the visitors.

Their most common mode of transportation is camel or on foot.

 Only travelers or the semi-permanent folks use bicycles or motorcycles occasionally. Four wheelers such as jeeps and cars are restricted to government officials only. Private vehicles are allowed only for 24 hours with the permit issued by the District Commissioner.

The architecture of rohi is categorized according to the three major settlements, beside the historic architectural assets. Nomadic people, do not make any permanent dwellings. Their temporary houses known as gopas (round low mud walls with domical roof), are generally made of the locally available mud and thatch. Houses of other settlements however are spatial and are made of cement and bricks generally.

So, this is how briefly I can introduce the Cholistan dessert. In fact, I have so much more details to share for every part of my visit that’s why I have written separate blogs for each.

Rating

Site: 8/10

Accessibility: 8/10

Services: 6/10

Residents: 8/10

Market: 6/10

Resourcefulness: 6/10

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Khanaspur Waterfalls

Just like the other concealed spots of Khanaspur, the three waterfalls are also not known to many. We too only knew about two waterfalls only, as was told to us by people, unless we tracked down the source of the second waterfall and found the third waterfall there. It is indeed a miraculous place with lot of hidden mysteries still needed to be discovered.

So we started our journey by first booking a local Suzuki pick up, although we can take our own cars, but it’s better to hire local; because first, to get to the right place without getting distracted and second, because sometimes routes are risky. We travelled down the hill on routes that kept switching from one side to the other of those big mountains. It offered us a variety of views to cherish. On our way, we saw the first waterfall that was so small that only one or two persons could stand under it.

We didn’t stop there because it was not a family spot neither did we find it that attractive, just being honest. We moved forward cherishing the beauty of the place and finally stopped on a bridge. Oh! So we had finally reached. The bridge was above the big water stream coming from the second waterfall. We went down the bridge to the water.

 It was a fresh warm water stream reflecting the lush green mountains around, with goats grazing on them and little girls from the village playing and jumping from the big rock into the water. There were small one step terraces with water flowing on them and those girls had smartly blocked the water with small stones to control the water flow; making them a small hose to jump in.

Then we moved on on foot to find the actual source of water. The way was rocky and not for everyone to step onto. It was quite with no human existence. Haunting for those who feel like and only worth visiting during the day time. There on the way, we found another and more beautiful waterfall. Although it was thin but what attractive was the small bowl of rock it was falling in. This makes you stop, take a deep breath and never go back to where you came from.

Rating

Site: 9/10

Accessibility: 8/10

Services: 6/10

Market: 5/10

Resourcefulness: 6/10

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Khanaspur

Khanaspur is one of the places of Galiyaat region, not known to many. It is hidden in the vicinity of Ayubia in a way that one cannot easily find the place. You need to discover that off route road leading to this gem of a place until you’ve already visited the place. The air is fresh, of course, and the place is not crowded like other Galiyaat regions. It is blessed with unmatchable natural beauty and hospitable people. Khanaspur is an underdeveloped village, not because of the houses or roads but because of the availability of resources.

Khanaspur is one of the small pieces of heaven on earth; with lush green mountains, tiny water springs at every other place, clear sky and fresh air. If one wants to have their own farm house away from the city hustle, one must find a place in Khanaspur for its execution. The serenity at the place is unmatchable.

We stayed in a small rented house there and explored the place on foot. There was a small water spring just a few steps down the hill, where we used to get the drinking water from. The place is more like a natural labyrinth with interlinked and connected paths. Most of the paths are needed to be discovered especially if you are new to the place, because locals know all the secret ways to the hidden sites. This place really is full of surprises.

 You never know which path will take you where or if the path will end at a certain destination. And the houses, both centuries old and the contemporary built, are so well maintained and are located at such beautiful sites that one dreams of. Their color, architecture and location all compliments together to make them look more appealing.

I can only write about it in general sense, because the specific beauty can only be cherished by visiting it. This place is needed to be discovered and explored oneself to celebrate its concealed beauty, specific to everyone.

Rating

Site: 8/10

Accessibility: 8/10

Services: 7/10

Staff: 8/10

Market: 8/10

Resourcefulness: 7/10

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Khunjarab Pass

The place itself was as magical as its route was. Everything was frozen as if we were in a big deep freezer. We were on 7^th sky there when the clouds were flowing along the road below our feet. One time it was all clear and the very next moment you can’t find the person standing at a two feet distance. A small lake there was all covered with a thick layer of snow; and yes, we didn’t recognize it ourself, we were told that it is a frozen lake.

When we jumped out of our vehicle, it was foggy. When the clouds and snow spared the spot for a moment there was.. A SURPRISE!! It was Yak! Yes, I’ve always wanted to see yak in person but couldn’t. Even tried finding its meat but that too I didn’t. But finally, I met so many yak there. Rode one too. I don’t know why, but they were scared. May be I had a different image of them in my mind. I imagined them wild and energetic but they were naïve, calm and trained. They were even riding people on the frozen lake, so you can imagine how thick the layer on the lake would be.

Meeting yak gave me so much hope for finding Markhor there too. They told me that they often come out in search of food and we may find it on our way back. Anyway, coming back to the border. After exploring the frozen lake, riding on yak, taking pictures with the world’s highest ATM machine, we went on foot to the border. They have separated the visitors with barriers, so we were not allowed to get closer and see on the other side. Also it was foggy so sometimes we could, but mostly we couldn’t see from distance.

 They say the weather is unpredictable here. One moment it’s snowing, the were next, it’s sunny. But still it was amazing and we had a great time there. On our way back, we were more interested in finding Markhor than seeing places. We failed but it was fun.

Rating

Site: 9.5/10

Accessibility: 9/10

Services: 5/10

Market: 4/10

Resourcefulness: 4/10

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The Way to Khunjarab Pass

Today was the grand day of our trip, for today we had to touch the borders with China. Yes, you guessed it right! THE KHUNJARAB PASS. I’ve been super excited for two specific reasons; first, because I’ve never been at this height ever before and secondly because I heard about the snow there, and I have never seen the snow falling in person.

The excitement kept increasing as we were heading closer to our destination. Starting our journey from Hunza, we slowly headed upwards cherishing the beauty of all the surrounding areas. Best thing was that the road was smooth as silk, so the motion didn’t break and we were not distracted with the jerks. It all felt like a dream. I must say it has a jaw dropping beauty that you don’t wanna miss for a second. You blinked, you missed!

On our way, we passed through the (apparently) endless tunnels, where it turns night during the day; with our voices echoing in the tunnel. You cannot share this experience in words. The aura of the feels can only be felt by experiencing oneself. One thing I can say, that it gives an equally youthful experience, no matter what your age is. Then came the famous Attabad lake, where we stayed for a while and did jet skiing and boating and headed forward. Saw those unique Passu cones as well, which are unbelievably true to their existence.

As we were getting closer to our destination, it was getting colder and cloudier. You can imagine it like we were moving towards a dreadful castle to save the princess. The place has the same drama except that the road was smooth and curvy along the mountains. Then slowly it started snowing; but it was different, it was like slightly big white pollens blowing around like a magic spell. Our curiosity was increasing with the same pace as we were going higher and higher and then finally we stopped. But we were so lost in the aura of the place that we didn’t notice that we’ve reached. My memory is still fresh whenever I recall those routes.

Rating  

                                                                                   

Site: 9.5/10

Accessibility: 9/10

Services: 5/10

Market: 4/10

Resourcefulness: 4/10

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Attabad Lake

I am sure all you have already started imagining the picture of the lake, since it’s the most common and the most over-rated lake of the GB. I know it might have hurt your sentiments but I’ll be honest here. If not all, I still have visited enough lakes of the region and they all were breathtakingly beautiful. So whenever I think of Attabad, I unconsciously start comparing it with other lakes; and to be honest again, others win.

I don’t have any hard feelings attached to the place but it is just that. The place indeed is beautiful, no doubt. Especially I love how the tunnels are pierced from those magnanimous mountains. They appear no less than a miracle. And those mountains! The beautiful mountains! And that specific blue hue of the lake! You can always guess the lake with these hints.

I’m sure all of you know the story of its historical origin. Just in case you don’t know, it was formed as a result of a massive landslide burying the village of Attabad. Displacing almost six thousand people and damaging more than 20km of the Karakoram Highway, the river was dammed at the area, creating a new lake. Remember that this was the only route connecting this remote region and due to the creation of the lake, this part got disconnected. Then five years later, the route was diverted along the shores of the lake via tunnels.

Despite the beauty of the place and all the recreational activities there, the whole story is not quite picturesque; especially for the locals. And same I can say about me as well. This place haunts be a little inside. I feel the dread and death in its water. I did travel on the boat, did jet skiing also, meanwhile, touched and splashed the water as well, yet again, it contains a strange fear. I did tour the blue lake of Naltar on a raft like boat but that didn’t give me the goosebumps, like the proper boats of Attabad did.

Well, everyone have their own experience, of course, but I have an uncommon and different experience related to it. You might be thinking why I have been so brutally honest, it’s because nobody will ever write a blog like this one. And the obvious ones can be read anywhere.

Rating

Site: 7/10

Accessibility: 9.5/10

Services: 7/10

Staff: 6/10

Market: 6/10

Resourcefulness: 6/10

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